Big Wave Surfer’s X-Mas Gift: Survival:"Greg Long almost missed Christmas this year. On Dec. 22 he was surfing at a rare monster storm swell at one of Earth’s most treacherous and remote big wave spots: Cortes Bank, miles off the coast of southern California. He fell from his board in the middle of a series of 25-foot-tall waves that came crashing down around him."

That’s one lucky surfer!

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